Chef keeps it green; Altenberg is committed to serving the freshest produce at his Chicago area eateries

If chef Michael Altenberg were any more green, he might glow inthe dark. Long before shopping at organic markets became a flashyphoto-op for media-savvy chefs, Altenberg was quietly dishing uptasty organic dishes at Campagnola in Evanston and Bistro Campagnein Lincoln Square.

Altenberg's commitment stems from both professional and personalinspirations. As a young chef at Italy's Antica Osteria del Ponte,he cut herbs and picked vegetables from the restaurant's garden andwent to a poultry house to pick out birds for dinner service. Hisyoung son contracted a strain of leukemia likely caused by exposureto toxins, and eating organic food was a way to rid poisons from hisfamily life. His newest project, Crust, an organic pizzeria openingnext month in Wicker Park, is an attempt to bring affordable,healthy and locally grown food to the masses.

Q. What do you wish you could change/pickle about the Chicagorestaurant scene?

A. I would like to see fewer chain restaurants and more soleproprietors. My wish is to preserve the diverse ethnicity of thecity. We have a world of options, and I believe that preserving eachgroup's culture is very important.

Q. What would your last meal be?

A. Sushi. I developed a love of sushi when my family lived inYokohama, Japan, when I was 5 and 6 years old. My father would takeme to the local sushi bars, and I quickly developed an addiction toJapanese food. To this day, their focus on simplicity and clean,precise flavors has a huge impact in how I approach food.

Q. What Chicago chef would you be most willing to share a kitchenwith?

A. Katsu from Katsu Japanese Restaurant. He's a master of Tokyo-style sushi preparation and has a real respect for all of theproduct he handles. He cuts fish in a block style, which is typicalin Tokyo. My favorites are anything to do with blue fin, especiallytoro and his miso, with a potpourri of textured soy bean products.

Q. What's the can't-miss dish at Crust?

A. Any of our wood-fired flatbreads, especially Flamkuchen, aflatbread from Alsace, the region between France and Germany. Theflatbread represents a fusion of French and German cuisine featuringcaramelized onions, smoked bacon, creme fraiche and Kirsch Wasser[cherry brandy].

Q. What should we know about Crust that we probably don't?

A. We are the first third-party certified organic restaurant inChicago.

Five for Frying is a weekly feature that asks one great chef fivefun questions. Read our archive at centerstagechicago.com

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FOOD & DRINK DEALS TODAY

Bricks: 1909 N. Lincoln; half-price bottles of wine

Butch McGuire's: 20 W. Division; $1 roast pork mini-sandwichesand $3 drafts of Foster

Cleo's: 1935 W. Chicago; $6.99 barbecue ribs and fries, $2.50 PBRand $3.50 Kirin

Debonair Social Club: 1575 N. Milwaukee; $3 Jim Beam shots

Izumi Sushi: 731 W. Randolph; half-price house sake

Kelly's Pub: 949 W. Webster; $1 burgers and $1.50 Bud and BudLight bottles

La Taberna Tapatia: 3358 N. Ashland; $1 gringas, $2 Cuervo shotsand $4 Cuervo margaritas

Mas: 1670 W. Division; half-price bottles of wine

Matisse: 674 W. Diversey; $5 personal pizzas and $3 selectcocktails

Ole Lounge: 2812 N. Lincoln; $5 mixed drinks and martinis

Redmond's: 3358 N. Sheffield; 10-cent wings and $3 drafts

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